On the rails (From Western Telegraph)

On the rails

When I agreed to follow a fashion buyer for the day, I didnt know it would start at 5 am.

But Vanessa Hackett, who works for Ocky White, in Haverfordwest, regularly leaves home at an unsociable hour to go to London, Birmingham, Cardiff or Harrogate and chose the latest fashion designs.

She invited me to join her viewing the Betty Barclay Spring/Summer 2002 collection, and, with a bit of an obsession with all things fashionable, how could I refuse?

Boarding the train at Camarthen found me with the usual suspects on the platform: A station official, and a handful of people waiting to get on.

By the time we got off at Paddington, there were thousands of hot, angry-looking bods, rushing in the London-sort-of way, purposeful and shiny. (Or is that a hot 30 something degrees sweaty?) Fortunately we did not have to negotiate the Underground, and one black-cab ride later I followed Vanessa into an air-conditioned room on the third floor of a posh building off Oxford Street. It was full of clothes, groomed women, leggy models and beige carpeting.

We were greeted by a receptionist who efficiently chartered our progress from door to seller Annie, our personal one-to-one guide for the day.

Annie ferried us over to one of the 20 or so desks in the large room. Models drifted past us in pale blue twinsets and striped trousers.

By the time Id got my bearings Vanessa was already off looking through a rail. Each one was called a story and contained about 40 items belonging to the 3,000-piece collection.

We were only looking at half of it - the second half would be shown a couple of weeks later. And to minimise chaos each buyer was given an appointment time - no casual dropping-in here.

With seller in tow, Vanessa chose an outfit and hung it on a grid so she could look at it. Sometimes the clothes were given to models to put on, who would parade in front of us duly clad in red/navy/stone/lemon combinations.

Each item had a tag with swatches of fabric to show the different colours they were available in, and the dates they would be released.

I asked if I could take photographs. Celia, who did PR took the opportunity to fling me a sales pitch.

What amazed me was the variety of choice and the possibilities of combinations.

Vanessa would select an outfit and order the sizes off each rail.

Another buyer might also chose from the same rail, but a new combination, or different items entirely. Even though they would technically be from the same story, the buyer selects for their own customers and what they know will sell in their area.

It will be completely different in a chain department store to the one-off boutique.

And each item is made to order. If Vanessa chose a black leather structured jacket with tan trim in sizes 10, 12 and 14 those are the only ones that will be made and delivered to Haverfordwest. Theyre not the only ones to be made internationally, but its unlikely youll see others round town - and once theyre sold, theyre sold.

It keeps a measure of exclusivity, said Denise Shepherd, chief executive of Betty Barclay. Its down to the professionalism of the buyer.

After looking through numerous rails of clothes they all began to look similar, but Vanessa was still on top form - particularly when a model came out in a floaty white pleated skirt looking like Grace Kelly. Her decision was instant.

Weve got to be all things to all people, said Vanessa. You cant go for safe anymore, she went on. Im always looking out for new things - it keeps the store fresh.

Customers at Ocky White have a wide variety of tastes and ages. The clothes in the shop need to reflect this - something Vanessa was acutely aware of.

And Betty Barclay does fit the bill in this respect. The clothes are at least made for women not waifs, and consist of modern takes on classic looks.

Yes, there were a lot of navy jackets, but the tailoring was exquisite. And balanced by the brightly coloured printed tops, subtle silk shirts, or soft suede and leather, there was definitely more of an aim at a fashion-conscious market than I had previously imagined.

The quality is reflected by the prices, but I repeated my justifying mantra: Divide the cost by the number of times you wear it, and have already made a mental note to get in there first.

Top tips for next summer? Stock up on red.

Captions: Vanessa with seller Annie, choosing outfits from the collection. PICTURES: Western Telegraph