The Needle or Bust (From Western Telegraph)

The Needle or Bust

11:49pm Monday 29th June 2009

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The Needle or Bust The last time I rowed to The Needle, off Dinas Head, was five years ago.

I think I have been talking about the experience ever since. Five years ago I reached there in a Celtic Longboat from the direction of The Parrog while training for the Dinas Head Challenge.

All I had to do was row, let some else decide whether to pull inside, and I had no idea of what was waiting.

The channel between the huge rock off Dinas Head was much narrower that day, but the water was fairly calm apart from the endless slurp of the sea that sucks and pushes.

The sight is a wonder: rows and rows of razor bills, guillemots, gulls, fulmars on the ledges with shags skimming the surface of the sea. As we pulled in that day and paused the birds were plummeting into the water hunting a meal.

Any return for me had a long delay as I awaited two cataract operations. Before they were completed the glare of the sea became painful and I even kept clear of the coastal path.

For the last couple of years that problem has been solved. And this time Daphne and I decided to row from Pwllgwaelod to The Needle.

We left Pwllgwaelod at 11 am. Our plan, with sandwiches, chocolate, drinks, was to land near to The Needle - a fair paddle as it is on the far side of Dinas Head - and have a rest before coming back.

The Needle was packed with birds on the ledges, but we couldn't find a place to stop other than on flat rocks. This seemed a bit risky as the sea was choppy and while we could have landed, getting afloat again would have been tricky.

There were rafts of razor bills who seemed not bothered by us and we got close them. There were also guillemots and shags whizzing about just above the water and much of the way birds they were lined on the edge of the cliffs like spectators.

The big show was definitely The Needle. We have been wanting to do this for five years: would the experience disappoint? Not at all.

The sea was rougher, the wind stronger and we were ready to ease into a dark little channel to watch and photograph the birds. And they were there on the ledges and making their usual racket.

On the way back the choppy stretch was choppier with a fair bit of wind. Daphne said she "wasn't moving" and if we stopped we began being pushed back.

However, we slogged on. We didn't stop until we reached secluded cove, perfect for seal pups in September, where we had a picnic.

We reached Pwllgwalod by 2.30 pm.